Nut Cracker
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Nut Cracker
My thoughts on choosing the right Nut Cracker for Soft Shell Nuts and Hard Shell Nuts
So you bought a handheld nut cracker, brought it home and tried to use it on a black walnut. How did that turn out? Well if it was anything like it was when I tried it, the nut went flying across the room and you pinched your finger! Believe it or not, there are many types of Nut Crackers out there. As we already know there are hand held nut crackers, but did you know there are Nut Crackers designed for soft shell and hard shell nuts? There are even electric Nut Crackers! I decided to check out different types of Nut Crackers and here is what I found.
Soft Shell Nut Crackers
This type of are best for pecans, English walnuts, almonds, macadamia nuts, etc. They're made to use just enough force to break the shell without crushing the nut. You won't even need a nut pick when you use these types of Nut Crackers. I found one that was featured on the Martha Stewart Show. It's called the Duke Easy Pecan Nut Cracker. It works great! It's adjustable for different size nuts, comes already mounted to a hardwood board and is easy to assemble. I bought one for my grandpa. He loves pecans and he says he'll never use a hand held Nut Cracker again! Soft shell Nut Crackers are on the low end of the price scale as well. I found a price range of $10.00 to $20.00
Hard Shell Nut Crackers
You'll want a hard shell nut cracker for black walnuts, hickory nuts, butternuts, etc. These usually have a longer lever so you use less effort to crack the nut. They have a place to put the nut so it won't slide and they're already mounted to a hardwood board. As long as you don't put too much pressure on the lever, the nut will not be crushed. You can use these on softer shell nuts as well. I found a product called the Hardshell Nutcracker that works the best for me. It's been made in the US since 1980. I like supporting our home economy so that's why I tried it first. It worked great for me. At first I found I was shattering some of the nuts, but when I put less pressure on the lever that stopped. Hard Shell Nut Crackers usually run around $40.00, but they last for a very long time.
Electric Nut Crackers
An Electric Nut Cracker is great if you have arthritis in your hands or you have children munching on nuts. They operate with one hand, little to no adjustment needs to be made depending on the nut size, and they're very reliable. With each rotation of the motor a nut is cracked and the nut is expelled. These are great if you need a lot of nuts cracked fast. I can already smell some home made pecan pie in my future! Due to the nature of this equipment, they are more expensive. The products I've found run between $170.00 and $370.00.Ruby Campbell
About the Author
Ruby Campbell
why is a baseball bat a third class lever, a nut cracker a second and a pair of scissors a first class?? ?
i don't get anything of physics!!
There are three classes of levers which represent variations in the location of the fulcrum and the input and output forces.
[edit] First-class levers
First class lever
A first-class lever is a lever in which the fulcrum is located between the input effort and the output load. In operation, a force is applied (by pulling or pushing) to a section of the bar, which causes the lever to swing about the fulcrum, overcoming the resistance force on the opposite side. The fulcrum may be at the center point of the lever as in a seesaw or at any point between the input and output. This supports the effort arm and the load.
Examples:
1. Seesaw (also known as a teeter-totter)
2. Triceps brachii muscle acting on the forearm
3. Bicycle hand brakes
4. Trebuchet
5. Crowbar (curved end of it)
6. Hammer Claw , when pulling a nail with the hammer's claw
7. Hand trucks are L-shaped but work on the same principle, with the axis as a fulcrum
8. Pliers (double lever)
9. Scissors (double lever)
10. Shoehorn
11. Spud bar (moving heavy objects)
12. Beam engine although here the aim is just to change the direction in which the applied force acts, since the fulcrum is normally in the center of the beam (i.e. D1 = D2)
13. Wheel and axle because the wheel's motions follows the fulcrum, load arm, and effort arm principle.
[edit] Second-class levers
Second class lever
In a second class lever the input effort is located at the end of the bar and the fulcrum is located at the other end of the bar, opposite to the input, with the output load at a point between these two forces. Examples:
1. Dental elevator
2. Nutcracker
3. Paddle
4. Curb bit
5. Wheelbarrow
6. Wrench
7. Bottle opener
8. Diving Board (spring board)
9. Crowbar (flat end)
10. Push-up
11. Doorknob(could be a wheel and axle also)
12. Oars (the object is to move the boat, NOT the water)
[edit] Third-class levers
Third class lever. For the lever in this diagram to work correctly, one must assume that the fulcrum is attached to the bar.
For this class of levers, the input effort is higher than the output load, which is different from second-class levers and some first-class levers. However, the distance moved by the resistance (load) is greater than the distance moved by the effort. Since this motion occurs in the same length of time, the resistance necessarily moves faster than the effort. Thus, a third-class lever still has its uses in making certain tasks easier to do. In third class levers, effort is applied between the output load on one end and the fulcrum on the opposite end.
Examples:
1. Baseball bat
2. Biceps brachii muscle acting on the forearm
3. Boat paddle
4. Broom
5. Electric Gates
6. Fishing rod
7. Hockey stick
8. Mandible
9. Mousetrap (Spring-loaded bar type)
10. Nail clippers, the main body handle exerts the incoming force
11. Shovel (the action of picking or lifting up sand or dirt)
12. Stapler
13. Tongs
14. Tweezers
15. Hammer
fantasia; the nut cracker suite (tchaikovsky)