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Consumer Awareness Message - Bathtub Refinishing and Reglazing
Basics for Long Term Results
(In Order of Importance)
CLEANING
It is an absolute priority to get that surface clean of all soap by scrubbing with an abrasive cleaner, ex. Ajax, Comet, etc., and a scrubber pad, plus razor blade for those stubborn brown soap deposits. A lot of times just doing this step correctly makes the tub look new again! remove all caulking from tub, specially silicone materials.
PROTECTION
Like I said before this process involves using harsh, industrial-use only chemicals, so Safety First.... is extremely important.
COVERING FLOORS
3-mil plastic sheathing on bathroom floor, covering two feet of bathtub perimeter, attached with duct tape on edges surrounding tub or fixtures being done. If surface above tub is dark glossy tile or mirror it must be covered with masking paper also.
VENTILATION
Room must be vented mechanically by the use of a window fan, if window available or an exhaust blower if no window this is an industry specific tool not available at home centers or general tool supply centers.
PERSONAL PROTECTION
Wearing a respirator is a must; a full-face respirator is ideal for this step for its splash protection feature or at least standard respirator and goggles and rubber gloves.
SURFACE PREPARATION
With ventilation system running and cleaning steps completed dry surface with towel.
Apply an etching solution containing Hydrofluoric Acid compounds; with a large natural bristle paintbrush or industrial sponge using extreme caution not to splash or spill any liquid on floor or surrounding areas, it will cause permanent damage to most surfaces. Also, do not allow acid to flow freely down drain. Room will have very strong acid smell but will be removed through vent system.
Solution must remain on surface for at least 15 minutes to do its job of etching and preparing surface to accept a new coating, then catalyzed with baking soda powder to protect plumbing system.
Wash and rinse tub with clean, warm water several times you will have to use a scrubbing pad to remove residue and powder build up. Proceed to eliminate all water drips and moisture sources from tub area, cover shower head, tub spout with plastic bags to catch any later drips, if any signs of repairs are needed do these prior to refinish.
MORE SURFACE PREPARATION
Chips and damaged areas should follow the acid etching process, mix and fill a small batch of fiberglass body filler applying with plastic spreader, covering all chips and nicks, * tip: we prefer to find all such areas by inspecting the tub carefully then marking these with a pencil before mixing the filler. Filler dries fast! Cover drain with masking tape and trim around with razor blade. Sand and vacuum tub clean.
MORE ROOM PROTECTION
This material is going to be sprayed on if your going to get a professional job, so you must make sure the surrounding walls, cabinets and fixtures not being done get the protection they need, clear painter's plastic is the best choice, attached with masking tape. * Tip: blue low-tack tape is best for freshly painted walls; hang from the top at the ceiling, to the floor, and secured with tape on top of the floor plastic. Protect area over the tub with masking tape and 18" masking paper as well as plastic from top of wall at ceiling, down to this 18" paper, seal all around with solid strip of tape.
Ready to Refinish
Equipment Note
A professional HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) spray system and professional breathing apparatus is a necessity for these coatings, again these are strong odors and fumes that should be handled by trained and skilled painters only.
Solvent wash tub surface, air dry with spray system hose specially the drain area and use a Tack Cloth to finally remove dust.
Mix and spray urethane primer, according to manufacture's recommendations and recommended dry times.
Mix and spray Polyurethane topcoats, again to supplier specs.
These materials should cure and be ready for use anywhere from 24 to 48 hours under normal temperatures and job conditions.
As a final note, I cannot stress enough the discouragement of using do-it yourself materials for the above described process, either consider tub replacement or get a pro.
Hope this information is useful for your particular purpose, feel free to distribute as long as it is used in its entirety and without modification, deletion or editing and please mention its source.
Regards,
Orlando
_________________________________________________________
Written by Orlando P. Salazar
President
Bathtub Doctor, Inc.
There are many refinishing companies in the New York area that would be willing to take over your project. But if you’d like your project done right the first time – just like you want, something you can be proud of and at a fair price … then you are invited to call us.
We’ll be happy to answer all your questions, come out to your home or place of business and give you a written quotation.
Thank you very much for taking the time to read this important message, I hope that you find this information useful to make an informed decision, if you have any questions or comments or if you’d like to schedule an appointment, visit our website.
Thank you again,
Orlando Salazar, founder and CEO
Bathtub Doctor, Inc.
About the Author
Orlando P. Salazar was born in Santiago, Chile and followed his father to the United States, he came to NYC June 1976 and worked for the original Nu-Glaze from 1979 to 1981, from then moved to other companies that never grew and then founded the Bathtub Doctor in 1986. He lives in Long Island, NY with his wife Ximena, and their miniature pooddle "Xena".
Earlex HVLP Pro Spray Station for spraying cars?
are these any good for paint spraying panels of cars? how loud are they? its high pressure low volume is this good as well?
HVLP was the next best thing a couple of years ago, the idea was to have a reduction in the splash back from the paint by reducing the nozzle pressure
I have found that as long as you can get the paint into the nozzle you are OK but you have to thin it out to almost water viscosity.
Ja.
Spraying Morrells waterborne pigmented lacquer using a Fuji Q3 Pro