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Pulley Puller
Evaporative Cooler - Bearing Maintenance
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Oil Bearings Regularly
Oiling and inspecting your Evaporative Cooler or Swamp Cooler bearings can save you major headaches and expense. On most Coolers, oiling the bearings is a very simple job. The majority of residential and small commercial models come with a bronze bearing. There are no moving parts to these bearings as there are with ball bearings. Bronze bearings are made with a sleeve of bronze inside a steel die-cast housing. The blower shaft spins inside the bronze sleeve. These bearings allow for a smooth, low friction motion between the two solid surfaces. The bronze portion of the bearing is generally about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch thick and is porous for continuous lubrication. You will see an oil cup at the top of the bearing. Open the cup and drop about 5 - 10 drops of lightweight machine oil into the oil tube. This should be done at least once a year for light Cooler use, or multiple times a year for heavy use. Even though bronze bearings are relatively inexpensive they are quite durable. Often times, if oiled regularly and the belt tension is maintained correctly, the bearings will last for the lifetime of your Evaporative Cooler.
Inspect The Bearings
It is very important that you inspect the bronze sleeve thickness when you oil the bearings. As I mentioned earlier the sleeve of bronze in the bearing is only about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch thick. The steel blower shaft is constantly spinning within the bronze sleeve. If the steel shaft eventually wears through the bronze sleeve, then you have steel spinning on steel. Steel spinning on steel will make a loud, high pitched noise somewhat similar to the sound of a loose belt squeal. Once again it is very important that you inspect the thickness of the bronze sleeve. When any part of the bronze sleeve has worn to ½ of it’s original thickness the bearing should be changed. If you let the bearing get to the point of steel spinning on steel, you have damaged the blower shaft. Once the shaft has been damaged, you will never be able to use a bronze bearing again. The rough shaft will quickly wear through a new bronze bearing. At this point I would recommend installing a more expensive ball bearing with set screws in the inner race. This will attach the inner race of the bearing to the blower shaft and the shaft damage will not cause any future problems. If the ball bearing ever goes out it will never damage the blower shaft.
Changing Cooler Bearings
Unlike most other types of blower units Evaporative Coolers are constantly producing moist air which creates rust on the blower shaft, pulleys, and bearings. This often makes it more difficult to change the bearings. There are two things that I always recommend when changing Cooler bearings. Use a penetrating solvent on any parts that are rusted together. This often happens on the blower pulley and shaft, as well as the inner race of a ball bearing and shaft. Even after using a penetrating solvent I have sometimes had to use a pulley puller to remove the blower pulley. The other recommendation that is very important, always sand the rust off of the blower shaft before pulling the blower pulley or bearing. If you don’t sand all the rust off the shaft, you will not only have problems removing the pulley and bearing, it will also be difficult to slide the new one onto the shaft. You might also be tempted to use a hammer to drive the new bearing into place, which often can damage this bearing. As you can see, a few pieces of sand cloth to sand the rust off of the shaft will make the job much easier and actually save you time in the long run.
I hope these tips will help you with maintaining and changing your Evaporative Cooler bearings.
About the Author
I've worked in the evaporative cooler industry for 25 years and have installed and maintained units from all major brands of evaporative coolers. Through the years I've learned many trade secrets and valuable tips for working on evaporative coolers. Go to http://www.swampcoolersonline.com for more maintenance tips or to see our quality line of residential and commercial Evaporative Coolers.
How do i get crankshaft pulley hub off ?
ive been having problems with it and everytime i use a puller the puller just breaks ive tried to put a crow bar to it and still to no avail. any help is appreciated thanks.
it is a 98 chevrolet s10 2.2l 4 cylinder
i did take the nut and washer off still nothing.
Did You Remove the Center bolt and Large washer? If You have Removed the Bolt and Large Washer it Should Come Off.
Episode 10: 1987 Nissan 300zx: Crank pulley, timing marks